Forum - Paoson Woodworking

hi again Muanis,

I think you'll just have to lower the crossbars by 1 1/4", and make the worktop of the router table a little bigger to fill those 2 1/8"

Muanis wrote: ↑

Mon Aug 14, 2023 4:29 am

I bought the plans today and I’m looking to adapt them to a Sawstop Portable. Has anyone did this and has an idea of the changes?

Hi Muanis -

I also have the SawStop CTS and I am also trying to build this workbench with imperial measurements. Has it gone for you? I am completely new to woodworking so I am a little worried this may be too much for me given the need for the conversions.

Curious to hear your experience.

Thanks in advance,
Justin

Hello Suso,

I too am wanting to adjust the design to fit the Saw Stop CTS.

From what I can gather the following changes will need to be made to fit the CTS...

1. The platform beneath the base will need to be lowered 1 1/4" to make up the difference between the DeWalt (13") and the Saw Stop (14 1/3"), this will be achieved by adjusting part 7B.

2. The depth of will need to be increased by 1/4" from 26 3/4" to 27"

Does these changes seem accurate?

Also,

The width of the Saw Stop is 2 1/8" less than the DeWalt. Is this ok? Will this cause any issues when assembling?

I appreciate any help/advice you may have! Thank you!

I changed the following

Piece 22 - 28 1/2" x 23"

See if you can figure the rest by these.

Keep in mind that if you're using imperial, all the plywood is 3/4 and not 23/32 which makes some difference.

Sorry, I did 7B with 25" also. I'm 9/32 below the top of the table and will need to shim the saw.

Sawstop fits snug:





It is deeper than the table top. So the feet stick out:





And the box in the back does too:





1/4 of plywood to shim is almost perfect:





with a 15" 7B piece on the bottom + braces + 3/4 plywood. I don't have the measurement of my braces right now, but I think it is either 3" or 2 1/4" which is what I used in most places.

Another quirk of the sawstop.

I needed to cut a notch on the flip table on the back, the toolbox was sticking to it.



The fence lock also needs more space so I moved the table back enough to clear it.

Thanks for posting the Sawstop. I am considering adapting the workbench for a SawStop CNS (contractor saw). Because I live in Hawaii, it is hard to get and the only models available here are the ones that come with the upgraded "T-Stop" fence in either 36" (914mm) or 56" (1320mm).

Picture of the 36" T-Stop model:



I like the CNS because of the safety features, cast iron top, and induction motor. The T-Stop fence is seen as a solid upgrade, and if possible I'd like to incorporate it into the workbench. However, because it projects left of the cast iron top, it looks like it would intrude into the sliding carriage and inhibit its operation.

One possibility would be to extend the center section of the bench, so the steel wing to the left of the cast iron top is brought into the bench. This would extend the center section by at least another 12" (305mm). My total workshop space is about 12ft by 12ft (3.6m x 3.6m). Do you think this adaptation is feasible?

hi Hungry_J0e,
your idea can work. Another way is to move the fence profile to the right. In my case I don't make cuts on the left side of the blade, so I did the same when installing the new saw. Here you can see it:

That is super interesting... thank you for that.

The SawStop "T-Glide" fence comes in either 914mm or 1320mm. Seems like the 914mm would be the right fit for the bench. How much of the fence did you end up using with the Axminster extension?